Never visited before

Terribly tough evening stroll by The Pass. Being anonymous alike to a feeling encouraged in a city, but in a destination as spectacular and quintessential as Byron Bay. Nice and due perspective. I have been intently reading a local writers magazine of the nature of her surfing and poetic existence here in Byron and abbroad. I envision furious Surfers here once upon a time. Some secrets we would prefer to be kept as such.

Campos Coffee, Superior blend - 'Byron Fresh Cafe.' Consistent, great espresso. Beautiful position, watching the world pass. It could have been Eddie Vedder on his Ekulele before me.

  

'Kinoko' Sushi bar, Byron Bay - Nikon Ichmonji Sake. Melony, sharp, direct rice wine. I devoured the Isoba Age (Tempura scallop), Eel with tamago and shitake mushroom, Dengaku eggplant (Peanut miso) as thoroughly as the peering at the chefs doing their calm rolling thing within the bar we sat.

 

The West

New West suburb additions since a previous visit were a welcomed treat. If ever to return to this glorious part of Melbourne, I can be comfortably assured that a magnificent caffeine brimmed cup can exist.

 

'The Milking Station' - Padre coffee, Padre's self titled blend. I love this concept roasteries have with naming blends that are like a reassuring gesture from the roasters and baristas themselves. Enjoyed my black. Bouncy. Milk based weaving past me didn't appear tight. Busy place! No groans from neighbouring customers, just lots of smiles and 'Mmm's' at the food. Beans, guac, hot sauce (El Yucateco). Beans not bubbled soft, still retaining some crunch texture, a rare 'bean side' trait that I treasure.

 

'Common Galaxia' - Decor of such straight lines. The flare of their coffee is given a fantstic space to flourish. Market Lane - Guatemalan La Perla as a black. Apricot. Tart syrup mouthfeel, alike to the skin of the stonefruit itself. Buttery. Anna's pour over Panama Don Pepe Geisha was a walk back in time to cupping at MICE at the Proud Mary niche. I've been on the road for almost a week, tasting a taste each day. This cup is magnificant. 'Common Galaxia' - Seddon. Hope its still there in a week from now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The evening before the flight, following the paved path of excellent coffee. A night in with far too many bottles of red and an 'all hands on deck' approach to dinner, preparing a traditional Czech potato pancake. Everybody took a roll. You could have been the teary, tipsy onion dicer, the egg cracker for carefull sniffing of the ripeness of the interior, the potato juice mopper with the chux, or the muscle for the folding. 

 

 

 

 

  

Between Byron

 

Commencing the adventure to northern NSW began with a beverage. Most predictably, the excursion will conclude with one. Byron Bay is to be the height of our trek by plane, then indulging in the ease of a meandering road down the coast in a Van, usually home in the Forth Valley of Tasmania. Two weeks away from the Roasting house and the decadent calm rhythm of the winter existence of Robe, SA. It is due that I shake up some candid complacency and I've loaded my ipod with some Dirty Three, Nick Cave and Michael Brookes to venture into some break to the predicted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ballarat - 'The Mallow' A bar with the most encouraging of dim lighting. Incredible globes that paint warm hues over any bottle or glass you may grasp. I left my fingerprints over a 'Mornington Peninsula IPA' and 'Two Birds Sunset Ale'. The IPA was a bitter lemon, rich brew. Definite malt, great to smooth out all that citrus rind. The 'Two Birds', brewed in Yarraville was a syrupy, fruitier pint. The bitter factor very subtle after the IPA. Fruity beer but big.

'The Cornershop' - Yarraville. Favorite first stop consistently when entering Melbourne from the West. Hawthorn brewery 'The Flavour Merchants' struck gold here with a Czech styled Pilsner. My pic out of the three for the day.

 

Chef Simon in the kitchen worked his piano fingers over the stove to produce the prodable beef ribs nestled atop soft polenta, Celeriac strips and parsley. Side kicked by slow braised green beans, in tomato and cumin, Goats fetta.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post the dense dinner, the delightful Harry extracted a soy latte from the Slayer, using Supreme's Supreme blend. Diligently dosed, diligently tamped, diligently poured. With contageous enthusisasm, he explained the behaviour of the coffee and the machine for me of the day that I had chosen to be Cornershop cornered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I could sleep in this place - nestled amongst the pressed tin, people and pots. Nestled like the ribs on the polenta.

05 August 2012

Aeropress

Aero press - endless fun of differing variables that influence the cup profile. When I thought I had found a fool proof dose for the press, particular roast style and brew time and technique, another bean was roasted, ground and brewed to dazzle. Typically, the darker roasts are very particular in their older age of colour, in regards to how they are chopped, plunged and how much of them we decide to weigh in. Lighter roasts seem to have a bounce of youth on their side - they are more forgiving with the boundaries we set them in the Aero press.

Here I've tried a medium roast Costa Rica. At home with no measuring aids at the time, it was a brew bred from belief in feel rather than numbers. Ok for a mid morning play - nice body, silky like a fluid stream of velvet. Dissipated fast into a disgruntled acidity that dominated the orange zest and spicy dessert syrup. Nice young bark lingering to make this cup not a sweet tooths only.   

Pour Overs this morning

Aligned by a frost bitten glass window, at a solitary sea side, winter hour of 7 am, I sampled three lovely, differing beans with a pour over. An Ethiopian Limukossa grade 3, a yellow bourbon Brazil Amerallo and a Nepalese Supreme. 

General 8gm, 150ml.

I confess that little Robe didnt serve my impatience for the need for filters suddenly, so I continued my dabbling with this infusion using some paper towelling. No cringing allowed, as it proved to suffice - for me - for now. Filters should arrive shortly...

Limu was as fresh as a daisy - less than 24 hours out. Bouncing around straight after the extraction, but quick to gain some weight and concluded with rich berry, alike to young wine. The prominant blue berry in espresso wasn't so with this pour over. The soft extraction makes me think pinot noir rather than simmered summer fruit in sugar. As the liquid cooled, the acidity was not elegant and no body to even make ammends. This drop I decided to try as the pour over can stay as its destined espresso competitor. Roasted in the Mr big Diedrich.

Loved the heaviness.

Brazil was a roast from a Mr big Diedrich roast, that dropped out far to soon for our espresso level requirement. High temperatures for these beans in the drum. The cup proved expectantly lively. Still the orange in flavour, diminishing however, as no bold caramel there to keep it strong. The candied peel in a glaze was dominant in the dry aroma, dissapearing once infused. The cleanliness of this brew stood staunch, but the bounciness became a rough, grassy 'want to be' asset.

Loved the flavour.

Well, Nepal was what I didnt expect to shine. Roasted in the Sample Roaster. Smelling charasmatic through the valve of the bag. The oldest of the three roasts and roasted to temp for espresso. How I should know that all of these factors can at times be proven wrong. Quite hoppy in the dry. A strange battle between some cedar, treated timber and delicately toasted nuts. The balance between all created a perfect web. Moderate acidity, but trully made to be ideal for the pour over with the velvet, linger. Short roast time - roasted to colour of what could be suspected as espresso...

Loved the balance and the compatability for it to last as it cooled.

This Nepal will have to meet an Aeropress. Perhaps a little longer in the drum and a long black through the expobar nakeds will be meeting my soft spot.

Walked the dogs - half hour later returned to luke warm cups. Nepal then Brazil then Limu to satisfy.

Cupping is Naked

A means of evaluating adjustments to the roasting process of green coffee and their characteristics that are origin and processing specific - is via that thing called cupping.

Why cupping is essential to guide us on the correct flavour trail and how we routinely incorporate the cupping into our daily roaster existence is for you to peruse and ponder. Catch the bug of curiosity of this beautiful tradition of critiquing the lovely bean.

      Room temperature, climate and environmental factors that affect the stability of the Roaster can be unpredictable, sometimes detrimental and a constant influence on the coffee bean as it roasts a detailed cooking path. As we do our best to control these ever changing variables, it is a roasters mission to carve the correct script for a beans’ cooking journey to create optimal flavour from the particular origin.

      Knowing a little of the background of the coffee; origin indicating the characteristics of the prized flavour, body, acidity and balance of the cup allows the roaster to know what to nurture during the cooking of that coffee. An origin that is reputable for lovely light floral/ citrus attributes should be roasted with more delicacy and to a lower temperature or time, than an origin that boasts bold flavour and body. Density of the beans and their size sees crafted roast profiles that involve greatly varied fuel values, temperatures and airflow. To cup these roasts, throughout a year of changing crops, roasting conditions and knowledge we gain of the personality of the beans as we constantly learn, is our means of implementing regular, necessary change.

      Cupping commences with a small 8 grams of coarsely ground roasted beans, at the level of roast we think suitable for customers. The grounds are placed in a white porcelain bowl, with in ten minutes of grinding. The dry aroma of the coffee is smelt and noted. 150 mls of just off boiling water (92c) is slowly poured over the grounds for a gentle infusion. Now that the coffee is wet, a second ‘sniff’ ensues. The overall aroma of the coffee is rated once both the dry fragrance and wet have been smelt. The crust of the cup forms a thick layer of frothy, bubbled coffee on the surface of the liquid. ‘Breaking’ the crust is using the back of the spoon to agitate the liquid and smell the infused brew again. Flavours that burst to mind are hastily scribbled down before a new note appears to contemplate. It is through recollection of past flavour memory that we draw these mud maps of description of the beans. To aid us, flavour wheels are within arm reach to assure us of our perception.

      The tasting begins! The crust, once broken, needs to be skimmed and discarded to reveal the liquid beneath that we slurp. A spoon in each hand to sweep the surface of the cup is an efficient means of removing the coffee froth and grounds mixture. The cupper is to observe and note flavour attributes, acidity, the body (or weight) of the coffee in the mouth, balance, aftertaste, clarity and faults. It is all of these components that create a magnificent coffee, when in the correct states to complement one another.

      The effect of the age of the roasted product has an influence on the flavour of the coffee, as the length of time wine spends in oak! Re-cupping samples of roasted beans at 1, 10 and 20 days, sometimes longer, to affirm that the origins in the blend are compatible with their level of roast and the magical test of time. If it is evident that that particular roast level or marriage of flavours of origins of green within a blend are not performing – back to the roaster we trot and work with a new strategy to unleash the best from our coffee.

      Cupping is the raw sensory analysis of the beans as they age and respond on a chemical level to their environment and the roasting process. It is the unveiling of the coffee seeds secret to the roasters and baristas. A moment where the coffee shines unaided by the often shiny things we today utilize, to extract the juice of espresso.

     

Café Biz, Melbourne 2011  

                An El Salvador COE #9 at three venues over the Café Biz weekend saw my inquiring tastebuds in an euphoric caffeine, flavour state – repeatedly.

                First sample of this magnificent bean was at a new Café venture in Kensington, ‘The Premises’. My long black welcomed gentle waves of syrupy mint and anise. A beautifully balanced extraction of a gorgeous amber liquid with a staunch Crema and unmistakable river Nile down its centre, provided that even stroke of the entire pallet with no unnecessary grabs and bites of the tongue.

                This experience (at this soon to revisited Café), was to be matched with the divinity of the tightest textured soy milk to mingle in the glass with a double ristretto El Salvador base from the larger than life Duchess of Spotswood. Excellent barista skills! I was very impressed by the many coffees I inhaled, matching the sensationalism of the simply English masterpiece of a breakfast.  A jab of Stilton with the poke of competitively crunchy Rosti encouraged me to delay the coffee experience in order to keep two perfectly crafted taste experiences separate; lengthening my stay and pleasure…

                ‘Seven Seeds’ sent me on the long drive home to Robe in enlightened spirits with the same strong soy latte as requested at Duchess, however the extraction at this North Melbourne hub brought sweeter mint from the bean, lending a concentrated front and side pallet poke.

                Aside to the external food and coffee pleasures of Melbourne was the purpose of Mahalia and I’s trip to the Smoke for the annual Café Biz Expo. We were blessed by the company of wonderful individuals, providing equipment and assistance and direction in our set up. The Expobar brothers decked out a beautiful two group, temperature controlled machine for our ease of operation over the three days. Their regular visits to our stall were enjoyable and appreciated ones, as all were aware of how ridiculously busy those fellows are! Present in many places, I’m sure of it.

                Greg introduced us to the Melkhonic grinder. Very steady gramage control that would reliably stay put as the grind was tweaked as required throughout the day. Such a lovely machine to cooperate with. A two hopper machine was a grind on demand grinder with a difference. A find that was sad to part with.

                Upon set up on the Friday, Mahalia and I witnessed the intoxicating, runny honey pour s from our beans consistently after much fiddling. This was a sweet start to the Expo, for the mind and taste sensation. Some over indulging of the Blend # 4 Piccolo ensued until late afternoon.

                The darkest roast and Golden Bean winner took on new dimension at the Biz. Always a syrupy, punchy blend of sweet, smoothly dissipating finish, the beans juice danced into the cup from the Nakeds with much vigour. The prominent spice of aniseed and cinnamon adopted the fine tannins of a young Shiraz. There existed a kick that was mellowed by a sticky palm sugar sweet finish. Molasses, but not quite molasses. Alluding whiffs of Chicken broth.

                A ‘Mystery Bean’ idea that was of a last minute decision calibre saw a regular stream of talented palettes mill to our stall. The Ethiopian Sundried Bench Maji Grd 3 has typical berry aromatics and flavour. Blueberry similar to the Harrar. Sophisticated citrus, bordering lemongrass. Wild African bean smells were nurturing drunken states, minus the alcohol.

                Such a healthy mix of passionate coffee proffesionals, mingled in a space dappled with sexy machines, tamping forearms, beautiful packaging and persistent and perusing quality hunters. I was baffled by the knowledge that looped the room and the knowledge I was able to both gain and share. For a first time Coffee Expo goer, I’m confident it was the pick of the crop for a learner like I.

Cannot forget the final pit stop at the 'Duchess of Spotswood' for almighty fine salmon fish cake with a spinach

puree, baby basil and beautifully, badly buttered sourdough.

Dedication to age

8^th September 2012

To trully determine why the flavour and aroma of a blend loses its dedication to marriage; I put five samples under the pump in the cupping room.

Roasts dated back to as early as the 4^th of August. The 29^th of August was the most recent of the samples. Bean development of each roast was relatively alike. In the cases of apparent tipping or underdevelopement, these taints were noted and expected upon the snorting, slurping and swishing commencement.

   Dry Aroma

4^th August – Rasberries and young rosemary.

9^th August – Hot dog bread!

11^th August – Cracked black pepper.

16^th August – Lamington chocolate.

29^th August – Cranberries and blossom.

Given the age variance, the blend still held the dark roast head high throughout for its flavour, acid and body qualities. The slurp of each sample unveiled the most distanced marriage relationship in the 4^th of August roast. A little harsh for the side palate and some undesirable salty. The 9^th and 11^th of August roasts were pleasant enough. Cups I certainly wouldn’t knock back to doing the honours of commencing my day. However, the flavours were a little dulled and no stand out acidity or high notes. The 16^th and 29^th of August roasts bore strong relationships within. Reflective of intimate mingling of gases and personalities of individual… beans in the valved bags over the one to two week period. Beautiful balance and spices prominent. The walnut and shiraz and their tanic beauty.

To complete the blend ageing test, I extracted three short blacks of the 4^th, 16^th and 29^th of August roasts. As discovered in the cupping room, the 16^{tth and 29th} of August  roasts were the top performers here. Our older contender, requiring a slightly courser grind setting, was sweet for the immediate tastebuds, but punched his way down. Not brutally, but not as tender as our winners. To conclude the experiment held, on an unthreateningly overcast morning in Robe – this particular blend proved is best young,  but will not dramatically dissapoint if taken when a little fragile in its age ridden marriage.

home on a summer sunday

Ethiopian Limu Ferment Case

29 March 2012

 

First ferment find. In an Ethiopian bag of green. Nostrils filled with memories of the proceeding hours of mid summer lawn mowing. Humid, sweating grass clippings, steaming like wilting greens in a congested pan. The oil off the blades rendering ashfelt stint – highly undesirable.

     The green beans weighed up for a roast sat high in the barrel. Density of the coffee much lower; or moisture content much lower? I would have thought otherwise for moisture level, as the plastic wrapping of the shipment was skin/air tight around the beans, differing from the norm of the packaging.

      Gazing wondrously at the bean loader as the soft, poorly pungent beans tumbled endlessly into the drum. A regular roast would load with a different sound and what seemed at the time a shorter period of time. I reweighed and re weighed, momentarily doubting the scales or my tare.

          Running fast in the drum, our ferment friend did well… In contrast to a regular roast of this lot number, the beautifully yeasty, sweet Ethiopian final bean temperatures were very close to one another, but drastically varied in colour.

   Flavour, feel and smell - Shiny, monsooned like small beans with a heavy feel. High acidity with a moderate body that predictably with age would improve. However, the alliaceous, sharp aroma wasn’t desirable. Rough front palate, grainy and truly unwell summation of the brew welcomed a decision to reject the fermented bag.

          Our regular smiling cup of berries and sweet wheat ‘digestive biscuit’, clean and rounded ripe stone fruit, was no where to be found!

    Never doubt initial visual perception or unusual wafts around the nose hair J